What your hair says about you {Part 2}

Cheese girl:

"I wear a weave and to tell you the truth, I haven't really experienced a lot of stereotyping from my peers, but people who don't know me sometimes just assume that I've got money. I didn't choose this style because I wanted to be associated with the whole image, I just think I happen to look a lot better with a weave than I do with my own hair. I work in fashion where different people wear different styles, and mine's a weave." Mpumi, 25 Straight hair is generally linked to businesswomen dressed in power suits, says Prof Coplan. These women choose this particular style, he says, because it is deemed more appropriate in the mostly white environment in which they work. The problem is, of course, that as a result all black women with straight hair, particularly weaves and wigs, are thought to be wealthy... or BEE wannabes. And even if she doesn't wear a weave or a wig, if her jet-black hair is always relaxed bone straight, Miss Silky Straight is presumed to have an identity crisis because she still fries her hair by regularly dousing it in chemicals. The stereotype says she's a lawyer, businesswoman, works in the corporate or banking sector, or was born with a diamond-encrusted silver spoon in her mouth. She's rarely seen in anything other than designer togs and immaculately tailored suits. She wears heels every day, sports acrylic nails, drives a German car, and will only date high rollers like herself. But the wealthy corporate woman isn't likely to be seen with anything other than a conservative style in a neutral colour – never platinum blonde, says salon owner and stylist Brian Warfield. 'The platinum blonde hairpiece or weave is associated mostly with hood rats and prostitutes. It's not classy at all.'

Soul sista:

"Afro-centric hairstyles are about saying I know who I am and where I'm from" says Nakedi Ribane, author of Beauty: A Black Perspective The current crop of natural styles like the Afro, twists, cornrows and plaits are associated with a strong affinity with Africa, says Prof Coplan. The Afro was the style that typified the 70s African American black consciousness movement, which was all about black liberation and pride. The Afro gave women the idea that you could have long beautiful hair without having to put chemicals in it. Now, of course, we have the African Renaissance, which is encouraging pride in all things African and many people are interpreting this as a move away from processed hair. Natural hair is particularly popular, says Ribane, among artists, poets, musicians or people thought of as intellectuals and creative thinkers. Think Thandiswa Mazwai and Lebo Mashile. In stereotypical language, this honey rocks only natural hair. It doesn't matter if she has an Afro, cornrows, twists, plaits or a short schoolgirl cut; she doesn't fry her hair. The theory is that her taste in music ranges from neo-soul to jazz to 'politically correct' hip-hop. She's supposed to be well versed in all subjects related to Africa, love poetry and wear Afro-centric clothing and accessories. Soul sista is most likely an activist, designer, artist or actress. Jah Lady: "Because of my dreadlocks, people do assume the obvious. If they don't say it outright, they fish to see if I'm a conscious person, whether I smoke ganja or if I'm into poetry and listen to Lauryn Hill. "I think there is a certain awareness or state of mind you've got to have to wear dreads. Going through the whole process definitely gave me a sense of pride about my hair, because I was accepting my natural hair.' Lerato, 25 The hairstyle with probably the most universal association is dreadlocks. When you see them, you think Rastafarians, reggae and Bob Marley. But that image, says Warfield, is changing. "I think dreadlocks have become more widely accepted and don't have that stigma they once had, because people are wearing them differently. People will only assume you're a Rasta if you dress the part." "He has a point. Geri Rantseli has dreadlocks and I doubt if anyone thinks she's a Rasta in her power suit. Author Ribane agrees that dreadlocks, or locks, are now seen more as an option for wearing your hair naturally, rather than being seen as you making a political statement. But even so, locks still have Rastafarian connotations. To those versed in stereotypes, Jah Lady's Lauryn Hill-inspired dreadlocks are a mix of shabby chic and precision styling. Hers are designer locks with the thick Rastafarian edge, so they're well twisted, spritzed for sheen and dyed jet black for great colour. Like the Soul Sista, she's made an informed decision to go 'natural' and loves to associate herself with Rastafarianism. She most probably listens to Bob Marley and 340ml from Mozambique, but is also known to be quite the hip-hop head.

I am not my hair:

"I don't know if I'm making a statement because I'm bald. Shaving off my hair was about just being too lazy to deal with it any more! "But people do look at me differently now. I think they don't know what to do with me – whereas before, when I had natural hair, so much was assumed about me before I'd even opened my mouth." Yandisa, 23 If you want a hairstyle that comes with no baggage and will allow you to just be the individual you are, may we suggest you shave it all off? Honestly. A woman with a bald head, says Prof Coplan, is really saying something about her individuality. Warfield's view is that because many women see hair as their crowning glory, having no hair is seen as making a very bold statement. This look is harder to stereotype, which, of course, is part of its appeal. Is she recently bereaved and following the custom that dictates she must shave off all her hair? Or is she a breast cancer survivor who has undergone chemotherapy, like the hero of India Arie's song? Either way, she's very brave to walk around with no hair. This non-conformist could be a pantsula who loves kwaito, or a woman simply trying to model herself on Skin from Skunk Anansie – in which case we can expect to find anything from Floetry to Neneh Cherry in her CD shuttle.

What your hair says about you {Part 1}

Whether you 'shave it off', 'get in on the lock' or 'rock it straight', the hairstyle you choose has everything to do with defining who you are. David Coplan, a professor in anthropology at Wits, reckons hairstyles are a way of expressing identity. "We judge people by appearances and, to an extent, hairstyles signify something about you, so it's natural for people to make assumptions about you based on the way you've styled your hair," he says. "Hair and identity are inseparable – whether you're consciously making a statement or not, your hairstyle does express something about you." So if you've been thinking your hair is making no declaration to the world, think again.
The language of liberty:
"We choose hairstyles as a way of distinguishing ourselves from, or grouping ourselves with a particular crowd," says Johannesburg clinical psychologist Jenni Avidon. And because hair is such an important tool in expressing our identity, Prof Coplan agrees that every society has created a hair vocabulary to convey various identities. In South Africa, for example, long straightened hair is loosely associated with being Eurocentric, dreadlocks with Rastas and natural hair with being proudly African. Where do these associations come from? Largely from the people seen wearing these styles most often. They determine the cultural connections we make between their hairstyles and the clothes, cars, jobs and music they seem to prefer. But black hair also has a struggle history and a political vocabulary. Jo Bodiba, a 22-year-old industrial psychology student, part-time bartender and Yvonne Chaka Chaka's personal assistant, is proud to have been part of the 'hair revolution at Roedean' in the 90s. Rules at this posh girls' high school included a ban on braids, plaits and dreadlocks. Only natural hair was allowed for black girls, until JoBo led a group of nervous schoolgirls to challenge this rule. But the principal's shocking assertion that 'braids breed lice' stunned them. "As you can imagine, our eyes grew wide, our mouths dropped open and we were all breathless," JoBo remembers. "Well Ma'am," I ventured, "actually they don't. It's easier and cleaner for us to keep our hair like that, otherwise we have to relax it," I explained. "Relax!" she said. "What do you mean relax?" "Ma'am, as black girls our hair naturally grows hard and curly," I persisted. "For our hair to be soft and presentable, we have to straighten it with a chemical that smells like sulphur at least every six weeks at the salon, and we can't wash it every day, or it goes back to its natural state." A month passed, during which the principal researched the intricacies of black hair maintenance, before braids finally became respectable at Roedean!
...or oppression?
But policing the way black people wear their hair can be equally oppressive when hair becomes an instrument of liberation. So says a paper published by the University of Michigan, which quotes from the Hair stories of liberation told by writers Alice Walker and Gloria Wade-Gayles. Walker wrote about a connection between her 'spiritual liberation' and the delightful discovery (after an experiment with long braids made from Korean hair) that her own hair had a will of its own and a sense of humour – and she went as far as calling processed hair 'oppressed'. Wade-Gayles didn't stop there, saying 'an activist with straightened hair was... a lie. A joke.' So it's not enough that maintaining black hair is an expensive, time-consuming business, with good products hard to find here... Now our hair also has to do community service? The paper worries the root of the debate when it asks, "Does wearing your hair natural prove that you love yourself and black people more than someone with processed hair?" Babe examines some hair-raising stereotypes.

How to get extraordinary hair

Want to know what the Samy range is all about and whether it can fix your hair? Check this out...
1.Q: Can Samy rehydrate my dry, frizzy hair? A: Samy Smooth products are specially formulated with fine silicone molecules and an advanced system of vitamins and proteins to smooth, calm and re-hydrate extremely dry, frizzy and distressed hair without adding weight, residue or build-up.
2.Q: Can moisture, body and shine be restored to my hair? A: Samy Moist products are specially formulated for dry, damaged, dehydrated hair. These unique products re-hydrate, strengthen and restore incredible moisture, body and shine to hair without depositing wax, residue or build-up.
3.Q: What about curls? Can Samy make my curls look healthy? A: Samy Curls hydrates, defines and separates curls as it cleans, conditions and de-frizzes curly hair without dry-out. They are the best way to maintain manageable, beautiful healthy looking curls.
4.Q: Does Samy have finishing products to protect hair after styling? A: Samy's The Hairspray leaves hair soft and manageable. The fast-drying, weightless and anti-frizz formula provides hair with a high shine. This unique hairspray adds extra volume without sticky build-up or flaking, perfect for holding your style.
5.Q: Are there any Samy products to add volume limp hair? A: Samy's Mucho Mousse is specially formulated to add fullness and body to fine, limp, lifeless hair, while offering shine and flexibility without wax, residue or build-up. Think big! This alcohol-free formulation adds incredible body, volume, fullness and shine and is specially formulated with humectants and conditioning agents to nourish and strengthen hair. It also protects hair from the sun with a special UV light absorber.

Your hair after winter

With the onset of cooler temperatures comes a new set of haircare demands. Adding moisture is especially important at this time of year, and something many women neglect to do.As we spend less time in the sun, the natural highlights nature paints into our hair become less noticeable and hair loses its healthy, shimmering look. The cold air of winter is more drying and less humid, causing more damage than at other times of the year. Indoor heating devices create a dryer climate as well. All of this leads to duller-looking hair. Master hair designer and salon owner, Greg Amparan, offers some suggestions to keep your hair vibrant, well-moisturised and looking its best throughout the winter season:

Colour
People tend to apply more colour and highlights, and have more frequent perms in the winter. Colouring is one effective way to combat dull-looking winter hair, but highlights can look equally good. It's a sure-fire way to liven up your appearance and boost your morale!

Moisturiser

Moisture is essential for your hair, especially after it's been subjected to any chemical treatments. Look for a conditioner with cetyl alcohol. This is the best moisturising agent and is derived from coconut. Another ingredient to look for is cetearyl alcohol, which is an excellent hair moisturiser. A good moisturising conditioner is sufficient for many people. However, if your hair is very damaged or dry, look for a moisturising shampoo as well.




Lock in the moisture
Hair is much denser than skin, with cuticle layers that are difficult to penetrate. Once you've found and used a good product that moisturises your hair, you need to be sure to lock that moisture in. A cool rinse helps close the cuticles down, sealing in the moisture. Try this extra hair cocktail to lock moisture in: To flatten the cuticles, rinse your hair with apple cider vinegar. It's highly acidic and leaves hair with a fresh, clean fragrance. Let it sit on the hair for a few minutes before rinsing with cool or cold water. Apple cider vinegar contracts the cuticle, locking in not only moisture, but colour well. A vinegar rinse reduces the chances of colour fading.

Hats and hair
While wearing a hat is one of the best ways to stay warm in winter, these fashion accessories can be bad for your hair. "Continually wearing hats can lead to overworked sebaceous glands, resulting in limp, greasy locks," says Jan Przemyk, academy director for Toni & Guy salons. He advises women to make sure their hats fit correctly and also to dry-clean woollen hats regularly.

Short hairstyles 2007!

Benefiting factors of very short hair:

Many women prefer to have very short hairstyles. They are easy to maintain, as they do not take ample time to style. In addition, short hairstyles can keep a man or woman cooler, as there isn't much, if any, hair that is lying upon the neck. Some very short haircuts may be called for in the instances of a certain profession, such as being enlisted in the military. Having a very short haircut in this instance is beneficial, as it will help to keep the individual from experiencing heat exhaustion. There are many instances where a woman and/or man will simply want to cut their hair to try a new style. Whatever the reason, very short hairstyles are indeed "in" and are here to stay!
Short hairstyles:
Short hairstyles have been popular for women since the 1920’s. Louise Brooks’s bob hairstyle in 1917 became the most popular hairstyle of the 1920’s. Women of this time period threw out their corsets as they ventured out on a quest for freedom and they began cutting their hair short. Short hair became the new hairstyle for women as they entered the workforce. Short hair has long sense been a symbol of freedom and professionalism for women.Short hairstyles are fun, sexy, flirty, and easy to take care of. Considering face shape and personality are important when considering a short hairstyle. An oval shaped face really suits any style of hair, while a heart shaped face my look fuller at the chin with a layered bob hairstyle that has ends that flick outward at the bottom. A square face can be softened with layers and soft curls and an off centered part can help break up the symmetry. A round face does well with a feathered cut and layers coming forward to help slim down a fuller looking face. Bangs help to disguise a long forehead on a long face while a chin length cut will help to add volume and fullness to help broaden the face.The next consideration is the personality. A bold shape like a square-looking bob with short blunt fringe needs a strong personality. A side swept bang on a classic shag with flipped up ends looks great on a flirty feminine personality.Another consideration is body type and a petite gal may look best with shorter styles that give a little pop and helps the body gain balance. A side part and sleek straight bob is a very hip look.Hair texture is another trait to consider and for example, fine, straight hair that lacks texture may do well with layers and long bangs. Chin length hair will add body and volume. The use of thickening spray and other volumizing products will also help.Your hairstylist can help you come with the perfect short hairstyle for you. He or she will consider your face shape, hair texture, personality, and body shape while coming up with the perfect plan to transform your hair into the perfect short hairstyle. Whether you are looking for that get-ahead-at-work professional hairstyle or just looking for something new, fun, sexy, and flirty, a new short hairstyle is sure to be the ticket.

Food for your hair

A healthy and balanced diet provides all the essential vitamins and minerals for healthy hair growth and natural hair loss prevention. If you have a healthy body, chances are, you'll have healthy hair. It's all about balance when it comes to optimal nutrition for maintaining healthy hair. You need a mixture of protein, complex carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals in your diet. Good hair nutrition begins with getting enough protein, which is the building block of your hair. Other important vitamins and minerals include B complex, which is associated with energy production and building good hair and skin issues, folic acid, B12, and zinc.
Some minerals to consider for healthy hair are calcium, chromium, iodine, iron, magnesium, potassium and zinc.
For those on a tight budget or if you want a natural alternative here is some homemade recipes.

Homemade hair spray

Chop one lemon or an orange for dry hair. Place this in a pot with two cups of water. Boil until half of the initial amount remains. Cool, strain, and place in a spray bottle and store in the refrigerator. If it is too sticky, add more water. Add one ounce rubbing alcohol as a preservative and then the spray can be stored for up to two weeks un-refrigerated.

Chamomile Shampoo

You will need four bags of chamomile tea, four tablespoons of soap flakes and one and a half tablespoons of glycerine. Let the tea bags brew for ten minutes in one a half cup of boiling water. Remove tea bags and add the remaining ingredients until everything is melted. Then poor into a bottle and store in a cool place.

Deep conditioner

This recipe requires a small jar of mayonnaise and half an avocado. Mash both ingredients into a greenish paste and then smooth into your hair. Cover your head with plastic wrap and leave on for 20 minutes.

Homemade gel

You'll need one and a half teaspoons of unflavoured gelatine, and one cup of warm water. Dissolve the gelatine in a cup of water and place in the refrigerator to set, then just use as you would use a normal hair gel product.
Hair tonic

For this recipe take two teaspoons of gin and two egg yolks, beat the yolks until it's frothy then add the gin. Beat until the mixture becomes foamy. Massage the entire scalp and hair with the mixture then rinse off with warm water. This tonic has a shelf life of one week, keep refrigerated.

Why eggs?

It's a good source of 11 essential nutrients and is one of the few food sources with vitamins A and D. It is also an excellent source of choline – an essential nutrient which plays a role in brain development and memory.

Colouring your hair [Part 4]

You are Asian?

Break your hair up a little, with specialised colour:

- A complete re-colouring will last between two and three months, depending on how fast your hair grows (around 1.5cm a month).

- You could also go for chunky high and lowlights, for a more suble colour change, which is great if you want to avoid the 'helmet effect' of all-over colour. Go for copper and red tones to make the most of your hair.

- You can also shampoo in a tint, which will wash out over 8 to 12 shampoos. Change your colour with the season, choosing warm colours during winter and paler shade in the summertime.

- Try a henna mask at home, for light and movement without the commitment of permanent colour. Try the Body Shop and Boots for henna colour, which is 100% natural and washes out over time.